A Woven Top that Actually Fits! (NL6147-oop)

Well, this top took a bit of work but I got it to fit and that is a big win! And as far as finishing, I think this the closest to perfect I’ve ever come.

First up was the muslin (test fitting). I used a thrifted sheet purchased just for this purpose…cheap fabric, yay! Then I had to figure out how to adjust the fit, because I knew I would need to. This top uses a woven fabric (no stretch) and doesn’t have any darts or even really much waist shaping. I knew this would basically look like a tent on me if I didn’t adjust the fitting.

First Try – Traditional FBA

So, my first attempt was a traditional Full Bust Adjustment. Based on the pattern sizing I should sew a size 16 (using my full bust measurement). However, using my upper-bust measurement I should sew a size 12. Then, looking at the ease on this pattern (6 inches at the bust!!!?!?!?) I decided to go with a size 10. This would still leave me with ease at the waist and hip, and even the bust (only 1/4″ ease here). And, so I decided to try a traditional FBA that added a bust dart.

The pattern piece looks a bit ridiculous, especially around the bust area at the side seam. It did fit, but the dart was too horizontal, I should have moved the legs further down on the side seam, and the point was to close to the bust point. Also, I didn’t like how loose it still was around the waistline.

Second Try – No Dart FBA

So, then I decided to try a no-dart FBA I found on Pinterest. Basically, this works like regular FBA only you fold out the bust dart. This leaves a super wide waist dart so you go back with the original pattern and retrace the size seam (in red, below left). I narrowed the waist even more and added 2 inches in length. 

This more fitted version required a side seam zipper in order for me to get into it. I liked the top of the zipper tape up with the top of the side seam so when I stitched the sleeve in place the zip went all the way to the under arm. It really is invisible!

>>> NL6147 Review <<<

Pattern Description: Wardrobe pattern which includes tops in two views, a cardigan, elastic waist pants and skirt. I made view B of the top.

Pattern Sizing: 10-22. I ended up using a heavily modified size 10.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes. All the modifications I made were just for fit so it looked like the pattern drawing but actually fit me! 🙂

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. This is a very simple top to construct. I took the time to finish all seams carefully, which isn’t explicitly addressed in the pattern. I used mostly french seams except were I opted to use a serger so the seams were pressed open (on the side with the zipper and on the armhole with the button loop).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The style is simple but with just a touch of interest with a button and placket along the left raglan line. This version is quite casual because of my fabric choice but I could make a dressier version just by choosing a different fabric. Also, I could use view A (longer sleeves) and achieve a completely different look.

Fabric Used: I used some white eyelet cotton (although there are no holes so would it just be embroidered cotton?) purchased at JoAnn’s. I pre-washed it because I was sure it would shrink and didn’t want to send all the time fitting the top just to have it shrink on me. It was surprising easy to work with, though it is a bit more sheer than I’m used to. But, it will be prefect for a hot summer day!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Fitting alterations explained above.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I really like this top and may end up making another. The button on the raglan is distictive but I’m sure that by closing that up (maybe widening/deepening the neckline) would give this a completely different look. I image contrasting sleeves would look great or using bias binding to finish the edges and provide some contrast. Lots of options!

Conclusion: Easy pattern, once I got the fit right. Great for beginners because the construction is super easy and fast. There are also many design options just by slightly changing some details. I’m also likely to make the other items in the pattern in the future.